I just started a batch of apple wine and here is what I used.

• 5 gallons of fresh pressed apple cider with no preservatives added.
• 2 pounds dextrose (corn sugar)
• 1 packet Moncharet yeast

Super simple recipe!  I think I might try to carbonate half of it to drink sooner, maybe even by this Thanksgiving, and bottle the rest to age for next year.

Using a funnel I poured the cider into a sanitized 6 gallon carboy.  I used dextrose, which can be found at homebrew stores and some grocery stores, to boost the specific gravity and the potential alcohol. Dextrose will be completely used up by the yeast so it will not end up sweetening your final product when you add it for primary fermentation.

I thought I would try this after reading a super long thread over at homebrewtalk.com by EdWort and how he makes his Apfelwein.  Sounds good to me!

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Basic Types of White Wine.. WAll types of white wine are made by growing and processing white grapes. The finished wine will vary greatly depending upon the type of grape grown and several other variables.

Below are some of the major types of white wine:

• Chardonnay: Chardonnay is a good choice for fish and chicken dishes. It makes the principle white wine of Burgundy (France), where it originated. Chardonnay is versatile and is grown with success in most viticultural areas under a variety of climatic conditions.

• Pinot Grigio: Known as Pinot Grigio in Italy and the Alsace region of France, and Pinot Gris in the United States, this grape’s character will vary depending upon its growing region. European Pinot Grigio tends to be more acidic with less body than its American counterpart. All Pinot Grigio/Gris possess a citrus aroma.

• Riesling: Riesling is made from the the classic German grape of the Rhine and Mosel. Riesling grows in all wine regions. Germany’s great Rieslings are usually made slightly sweet, with steely acidity for balance. Riesling from Alsace and the Eastern U.S. is also excellent, though usually made in a different style, equally aromatic but typically drier (not sweet).

• Sauvignon blanc: Sauvignon Blanc, also known as Fumé Blanc, is grown in the Bordeaux and Loire regions of France, and in California, New Zealand and South Africa. It is characterized by a light, crisp acidity. It will often contain several fruit components and is frequently blended with Semillion from the Bordeaux region of France.

• Semillon: Semillon is one of the more unique types of white wine. It rarely stand alone and is frequently blended with Sauvignon Blanc. Semillon can also be very rich, making a favorable dessert wine.

Of course there are many more types and an infinite number of blended combination. Do what I do and drink them all! The beginning home wine maker can buy just the prepped juice of any of these varieties ready to ferment without having to worry about grapes.

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Basic Types of Red Wine Red wine comes from dark violet  grapes. The grapes are fermented whole, with the everything intact. The finished wines can be light or sweet, refreshing or mellow. Below are some of the major types of red wine:

• Barbera: This grape is similar to Merlot, but not as well known. Barbera wines go well with many dishes, including those prepared with tomato sauce. Their taste is similar to black cherry and plum fruit, with a silky texture.

• Cabernet Sauvignon: Considered one of the world’s best varieties of grape, Cabernet Sauvignon is often paired with Cabernet Franc and Merlot. It is often served with red meat and has a full-bodied flavor.

• Merlot: Merlot wines are considered “easy to drink” and are a good introduction to red wines. They can be served with any type of food and have a rough, tannic flavor.

• Pinot Noir: These grapes are difficult to grow and are rarely blended with other varieties. They are often served with chicken, lamb and salmon. The taste of Pinot Noir wines is delicate and fresh, with a fruity aroma and earthy notes.

• Syrah or Shiraz: Syrah and Shiraz are both names for the same variety of grape. These red wines go well with beef, steak, stew and wild game. The taste is fruity with black pepper/roast meat overtones and gripping tannins.

• Zinfandel: Considered the world’s most versatile grape, Zinfandel is used to make wines from blushes to rich, heavy reds. Depending of the heaviness of a particular Zinfandel wine, it may be served with pasta in tomato sauce, pizza or meat. Zinfandel has a zesty berry and pepper flavor.

Of course there are many more types and an infinite number of blended combination. Do what I do and drink them all! The beginning home wine maker can buy just the prepped juice of any of these varieties ready to ferment without having to worry about grapes.

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When a winemaker refers to ‘lees’ he or she is speaking of the sediment that falls to the bottom of their vessels after fermentation and aging. It is made up mostly of dead and residual yeast along with fine particles from the fruit in the must.

When you let the wine sit undisturbed the sediment will eventually fall to the bottom. This is usually called fining or some refer to it as letting the wine clear. Lees are then removed from the wine by the process of racking when the wine is siphoned into a new container leaving the sediment behind.

Leaving the lees in the wine will produce a distinctive yeasty aroma and taste. This is bad for us home wine makers, but is actually desired in some wine varieties such as Ripasso. “Sur lie” is french for “on lees” and is a classification of wine in itself.

Question: What are lees?
Easy Answer: The crap at the bottom of the wine.

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First off this is for informational purposes only.  I have never tried to make marijuana wine but I saw a few recipes and thought I would share.  Wine can be made from just about any fruit or plant material so it makes sense that marijuana wine is another possibility.

Obviously, attempting to make this would be illegal (unless you have a prescription!) so like I said the point of this is to inform.

THC is the active ingredient in marijuana and is present throughout the plant and concentrated in the buds.. those are the things people smoke. There are trace amounts of THC in the leaves and stems and this is what the recipes call for. THC is soluble in alcohol so it becomes part of the wine as it ferments.

Ingredients:

• 1/2 to 1 pound of marijuana stems
• As much leaf material as you want
• 2 oranges
• 1 lemon
• 2 1/2 – 3 lbs honey – You can use natural sugar here as well. 2 1/2 lbs will be a little drier wine, 3 lbs will make for a little sweeter wine.
• 1 cake of active yeast (not the packaged powder)

Equipment:

• 2 one gallon glass jugs with caps or airlocks
• Funnel
• Tubing
• Wine or whiskey bottles
• Piece of muslin or cheesecloth folder over many times to strain

Procedure:

Put the pot into the jug.. uh.. I mean stuff all the marijuana material into one of the glass jugs. Then juice your oranges and lemon, strain them and pour into the same jug as the leaves and stems.

Next heat up 3 quarts of water and when it is near boiling add the honey or sugar and keep stirring until the sugars are completely dissolved.  Take it off the heat and let cool for a few minutes so you don’t burn yourself. Use the funnel to pour the liquid into the jug containing the marijuana, cap it and shake it.  Take the cap off and let cool to room temperature.

Dissolve the yeast cake in some lukewarm water. Don’t use hot water or you will kill the yeast.  I’ll say it again. DO NOT use hot water or you will KILL the yeast. The yeast must be completely dissolved so it may take some heavy stirring.

Add the yeast when your jug is cooled. IF YOU DON’T COOL THE JUG YOU WILL KILL THE YEAST. Cap the jug, shake it well, and immediately remove the cap. Fill the jug with filtered water to within 2 or 3 inches from the top. Put the jug in a cool dark place on some towels and place the cap on loosely to let air escape. If you have an airlock use that instead of the cap in all the steps. The airlock is more reliable as it will allow gasses from fermentation to escape but not let outside air back in.

The mixture will start to ferment and be super active for a few days with bubbles rising rapidly. Periodically open and mash down your stems and leaves with a clean wooden spoon during this heavy fermentation period. Do not add any water to the solution at this time and always place the cap back on.

After about 5 days the heavy fermentation should should settle down but it is not quite finished. Let fermentation continue for another 2 weeks. The bubbles should be continuously rising in your must. During this period you can add filtered water back to your solution to fill the jug.  It is also a good idea to mash down the material a few times.

Fermentation gradually slows down and should be complete at about 4 weeks.  When you see no bubbles clinging to the stems you know fermentation is complete.

Use a sanitized plastic tube to siphon out the contents of your jug into the second clean jug. Keep the tube about an inch from the bottom so you don’t pick up any sediment.  Wrap the other end of the tubing with the muslin or cheesecloth to filter any particles that may come through.  You could even use a few layers of clean pantyhose to do this.  Top off the second jug with purified water if needed, you will want the liquid to be about an inch from the top, then loosely cap and set back into the cool dark place. The wine at this time will be cloudy and needs to settle and clarify. Do not touch it, just let it be. You may as well trash the first jug because it is nearly impossible to get the material back out. You might want to be discreet in how you discard it as well.

After a month or two of clearing the wine is ready to bottle.  Use the tubing again to siphon into wine or whiskey bottles.  Wrap the output end in muslin or cheesecloth again to trap any sediment from your wine. Try to move the jug as little as possible to deter any sediment from being mixed back up into the jug.  Cork the wine bottles or cap the whiskey bottles and set them aside for aging. If you are using whiskey bottles it is wise to seal them with wax to get an airtight and watertight seal.

You could drink some of your wine now but it will not be very good. Store the bottles on their side for at least 6 months and your marijuana wine will be much clearer, smoother and mellow.

Remember that there is THC in this drink and it will affect you much more than drinking a simple glass of wine. The effects of the THC will gradually come on within a half hour and grow stronger.

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1. Always use clean and sanitized equipment. Be sure to sanitize all equipment before using. This means all containers utensils and tubing.
2. Always use chlorine free and non distilled water. You filter the water with a simple brita carbon filter or use store bought filtered water. Do not use distilled water as it can suffocate the yeast and retard fermentation.
3. Make sure containers are air tight and in good shape. Only use good or new food grade plastic buckets. Don’t use a carboy that has been previously used as a change car. You can image how much bacteria coins can harbor after being handled by so many people and coins can scratch the surface of the carboy or leave a metallic aroma. Again, be sanitary.
4. Use good yeast to insure good flavor and fermentation. Wild yeast is present floating in the air along with bacteria that could taint you wine if it is exposed.
5. When using your own fruit always de-stone any fruits with pits such as peaches and plums. Thoroughly clean the outside of the fruit and then cut fruit into smaller pieces for easier pressing. Remember that much of the color and flavor comes from the skins so use a good course fruit bag for pressing and leave the pressed pulp and skins in the bag for the first week of fermenting.
6. Campden tablets are the easiest way to sanitize your equipment and your wine. Add 1 crushed tablet per gallon of juice/must before fermentation. This will kill the bacteria and any wild yeast. Cover the juice and let it stand covered for 24 hours before adding the wanted wine yeast. Adding crushed campden tablets to filtered water makes a great sanitizing solution for your equipment.
7. Many fruits contain Pectin, a substance that can cloud wine and hold unwanted flavors. Pectin Enzyme will break down pectin. Many recipes will call for Pectin Enzyme.
8. A Yeast Nutrient can be added to help the yeast thrive when using pressed fruit and water for your must.
9. It is always best test the acid level of the pressed juice before starting. An acid blend of citric, tartaric and malic acids is sometimes added in wine recipes.
10. Always test the content of natural sugar in your juice using a Hydrometer. Most table wine will have a starting reading on the hydrometer of 1.090. If your juice/must gives you a reading on the hydrometer of 1.040 then you will need to add sugar to bring the reading up to 1.090. Roughly 1/4 lb of sugar will raise the specific gravity of one gallon approximately 0.01.
11. Move the must to the secondary fermentation vessel and attach an airlock when the specific gravity of the wine drops to 1.030-1.020. This usually happens between 5 – 7 days after fermentation starts. Top off any space with water, juice or a similar wine to minimize the volume of air
12. Campden tablets can also be used to kill the yeast after the fermentation has ended. Add 1 crushed Campden per gallon and let sit in the second racking.

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This is an old timers dandelion wine recipe and here is what you will need..

2 quarts of dandelion flowers ( flowers only, no stem )
1 gallon boiling water
Juice of 2 lemons plus a little zest
2.5 lbs granulated sugar

Bring the gallon of water to a boil and add the lemon zest and the flowers. Let water return to a boil then take the pot off the heat.  Let it stand for 24 hours and cover with a cloth or dishtowel.  Strain the mixture through a muslin cloth ( in a pinch you can use a clean old pillowcase ).  Let all the liquid drip out and then give it a little squeeze to get out some more.  Don’t over do it or get any bits of flower through or else your wine will turn out bitter.  Add the lemon juice and and 2.5 lbs of sugar and stir the mixture.

Now put the mixture in a glass jug with a dishtowel over the opening and set in the sun to ferment.  Place a rock on the opening to keep bugs out. Fermentation is done when the mixture stops bubbling and the bees stop taking an interest in it.  Add some water to the jug if it overflows from the bubbling of the fermentation or evaporation from the sun.  It takes about 2.5 to 3 months to ferment this way and you will see no more bubbles being produced.

After fermentation is done top off the jug with cold water and strain the mixture again into a glass jar and you are ready to go.  This method needs some good hot sun just like you are making sun tea.

Of course you could adapt this to use your modern wine making equipment but this was how it was done 70 years ago!

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Here is a recipe for a gallon of jalapeno wine for anyone who wants to try something a little out of the ordinary!

I haven’t tried making a batch of it yet but I bet using this with garlic and butter would make a great sauce for mussels or clams.

Ingredients:

• 12 fresh jalapenos
• 1 15 oz box of raisins
• 2 lbs sugar
• 1 1/2 teaspoon acid blend ( you can buy at a home wine store ) or use the juice of 1/4 a lemon
• 10 drops pectic enzyme ( again from a home wine store.. this pulls more juice from the fruit.. or jalapeno in this case )
• 3 1/2 quarts water
• 1 crushed campden tablet
• Montrachet yeast

Procedure:

Trim the stems from the peppers and coarsely chop them.  Put the peppers and raisins in a blender with 2 cups of water and blend until it is the consistency of a thick milkshake. Dissolve the sugar in 3 quarts of water over medium heat in a saucepan on the stove. Put the sugar water and pepper mush into your primary fermenter and let cool.  Add the yeast to the mixture and cover.  Stir the must every day for 5 to 7 days and then rack to your secondary fermenter.

From there you do the usual wine making methods by racking it a second time and letting it bulk age.  Bottle after 6 months and let it age in the bottle for another 6.

I would love to hear from anyone who has tried this.. I think this may be the next batch I will make.

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The hydrometer is an important piece of equipment for your wine making. Simply put, the hydrometer is a tool that measures the density of a liquid in relation to water. Measuring your pre-fermented must will tell you how much potential alcohol your wine will have and let you know if it will end up on the sweet or dry side of the taste spectrum. Sweeter wines are started out at a higher specific gravity with yeast that will die out at a predictable alcohol level leaving sugar in the liquid.

A hydrometer is usually made of glass and consists of a cylindrical stem and a weighted bulb with to make it float upright. The liquid to be tested is poured into a tall jar, and the hydrometer is gently lowered into the liquid until it floats freely. The point at which the surface of the liquid touches the stem of the hydrometer is noted. The measurement is referred to as the specific gravity of the liquid.

The scale for specific gravity usually measures from 0.990 to 1.20 with water being 1.000.  The higher the reading the more dense the liquid is. A hydrometer will float higher in a heavy liquid, such as our must that has of sugar dissolved in it.

Most normal table wines start fermentation at around a 1.090 or higher and ferment to a reading of 0.990 to 1.00. Measurements taken in hot liquids will be off since heat will make it expand slightly and thins out the liquid. Hydrometers are generally calibrated to give readings around 60F.

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The process of making your own wine is a fairly simple one, although it can be overwhelming to someone trying it for the first time.  Learn the basics of making wine first before you try to do too much or try out crazy recipes with different fruits. The absolute easiest way to get started is to buy a wine kit that includes everything you need to get going. Don’t forget to sanitize everything along the way to kill any potential bacteria. A kit will come with campden tablets that will be used for sanitation. Be sure and taste a little bit during each step to judge what your wine will be like.  It also helps to take a few notes during each step outlining what you did and your taste impressions since the whole process could take a year.  If you make a killer batch you want to be able to reproduce it!

The process is broken down like so…

1) Prep your fruit or juice.

You can buy ready to ferment juice by the 5 gallon bucket or you can get creative and extract flavor and aroma from your base fruit by crushing, boiling or pressing them into a mush. This fruit pulp mixture is called ‘must’. You could stomp on them if you really want to get an old world feel to your wine making.  (Never tried the foot method.. I would make sure your feet are scrubbed clean and free of any ointment or powder.  Gold Bond wine anyone?)

2) Test and adjust the specific gravity of your concoction.

Specific gravity is a measurement of how dense the liquid is compared to water. The more sugar that is in your liquid the denser it will be.  Sugar is what the yeast feast on during fermentation, alcohol is the yeast byproduct.. You drink yeast piss to get drunk.

A wine kit will come with a hydrometer that measures specific gravity. You want a measurement of approximately 1.095.  The specific gravity will also tell you the potential alcohol concentration of your must. Just know that 1.095 comes out to roughly 13% alcohol.

3) Add wine making yeast and ferment around 7 days.

Have your liquid or must in a primary fermentation vessel. This can be as simple as a 5 gallon pail with a clean towel draped over it.  Keep in relatively cool temperature (70-75F) and check a couple times to make sure fermentation has not stopped.  There should be bubbles at the top and it will actively bubble when fermentation is at its peak. I like to keep the wine in the basement for a steady cooler temperature.

4) Rack into secondary vessel.

If you used a must you will need to strain off the pulp.  You can squeeze the juices out of the pulp back into your mixture so you are not wasting any.  A secondary vessel is usually a carboy or jug with an airlock.  During this time you will want to have your carboy filled nearly to the top by either adding water, more juice or an inert gas to keep your liquid from oxidizing.  This is super important otherwise you could ruin your whole batch of wine.  A full carboy with an airlock on it will prevent oxygen from destroying the wine.

During this time leave it sit in a cool area (65F) for about a month and it will continue to ferment and clear.

5) Second racking.

After about a months time fermentation has ceased. Siphon out the wine into another vessel making sure to pick up as little sediment as possible. There will be a layer at the bottom of the carboy, do your best to leave this undisturbed. You may need to add some liquid again to the carboy. It is best to use a little water or some wine, adding juice at this point can really sweeten the wine or even cause fermentation to restart if there are any dormant yeast. When transferred attach the airlock and let be.

6) Racking and aging.

After another month repeat the process of siphoning into another vessel making sure not to pick up any sediment from the bottom. When transferred add water if needed and reattach the airlock.  Set somewhere cool and let bulk age for 3 months.

You could repeat this process if you wanted, some wines need aged longer. If you are using a juice kit then bulk aging one time is more than enough. Adding oak chips or other aromatics during bulk aging can give the wine different characteristics.

7) Bottle.

Now your wine is ready to bottle. Siphon your wine into bottles and cork.  Store the bottles on their side in a cool place.  You could drink it now but it is best to let bottle age for 6 months for whites to a year or more for reds. You will be surprised how much the wine changes during in this period.

There can be much more involved than what I described but this should be well enough to get an understanding of what the process is like.

Happy Drinking!

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